.Food & Drink

October 31, 2025

Crustacean reopens in downtown San Francisco

The legend of Thanh Long’s garlic noodles and roasted crab preceded my arrival in the Bay Area by several decades. But soon enough, friends and acquaintances would mention a restaurant in the Sunset, the San Francisco neighborhood that seemed foggy and faraway even from my first apartment in the...
Bistro 4293 celebrates Azerbaijani food
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September 1, 2025

Bistro 4293 celebrates Azerbaijani food

“My favorite Azerbaijani restaurant is ____. It’s much easier to fill in that blank when the restaurant in question is Mexican, Vietnamese or French.  Before sitting down to eat at Anar Usubov’s Bistro 4293, I’d read his website’s...
Daytripping for 'oysters' and scones
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June 27, 2025

Daytripping for ‘oysters’ and scones

The artists in Anthony Meier’s group show, “Consider the Oyster,” are united, not by their relationship to mollusks, but by a more ephemeral relationship to M.F.K. Fisher’s short book of the same name.  Throughout the work, published in...
Spicing up our lives
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April 28, 2025

Spicing up our lives

Both the use and the mystique of spices goes back centuries. Ancient Egyptians used spices such as coriander, cumin, myrrh, frankincense, cinnamon and ginger in cooking—and also mummification.  The ancient Chinese developed the classic “five-spice blend” of cinnamon,...
Building Oakland's soundscape to foster community
April 28, 2025

Building Oakland’s soundscape to foster community

In Haruki Murakami’s novels, the melancholic main character will inevitably stave off his ennui by spending time in a smoke-filled, boozy jazz club. The clubs are not only off the beaten path, but they may exist in...
Cider takes root in the East Bay
April 28, 2025

Cider takes root in the East Bay

It was four months ago when I was first introduced to the craft cider world. A winemaker friend in Livermore had taken my brother and I on a tour of what had to be 40 acres of...
Sirene arrives on Grand Avenue
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February 28, 2025

Sirene arrives on Grand Avenue

Embroidery on Paul Einbund’s baseball cap reads “chartreuse” in yellowy-green letters. It serves a dual purpose, announcing his profession as a sommelier and his upcoming travel itinerary. The restaurateur behind The Morris in San Francisco is about...
Donkey & Goat pioneers pet nat in the Gilman District
February 28, 2025

Donkey & Goat pioneers pet nat in the Gilman District

The cacophony of noise coming from the ready-mix concrete plant across the street from Donkey & Goat’s campus doesn’t necessarily suggest that quality wine is being made anywhere nearby. Isn’t a normal California wine experience supposed to...
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