While dreaming of travel and craving respite from summer season busyness, I received a fortuitous email in May that planted a seed-like idea. Short on time for two weeks abroad or a similar stint at a destination in the U.S., could a three-day, two-night beach excursion to a location within a two-hour drive of the East Bay suffice?
Enter Monterey and the unsolicited message from folks at the newly reopened (as of August 2024) Monterey Beach Hotel. The Marriott Tribute Portfolio property originally built in 1967 sits on more than 600 linear feet of shoreline. Since it’s the Monterey peninsula’s only beachfront hotel, succumbing to an invitation for a visit was irresistible.
Research showed the 192-room building’s unique setting offered immediate, commute-free access to sand and sea. Realizing the family-friendly hotel could also serve as an ideal hub for couples seeking romantic jaunts—and learning the re-model features Los Angeles-based Indidesign’s elegant but unpretentious furnishings and mixed-media artwork from local artisans—came as value-added bonus attractions.
All of which led to a 110-mile journey southward in early June to check out the hotel’s new look, amenities and management. Having arrived with thoughts of spending one night in a second lodging establishment—there are dozens of desirable alternatives—the hotel’s setting, an ocean view king suite and generous amenities rapidly erased those thoughts. With the hotel as ground zero, my stay included use of a well-outfitted fitness studio, heated outdoor pool, free two-hour e-bike rentals and more.
There is no room service. But the onsite Lantern Room restaurant boasted sweeping, panoramic views of the Pacific and offered seasonal breakfast and dinner menus. A lobby lounge with a curated wine list showcased local varietals and craft beers. The Tidewater, a sprawling seaside deck with fire pits, had guests of all ages and backgrounds gathering to enjoy cocktails, pop-up clam bakes, s’mores-making, corn husk toss competitions and inevitably, ocean gazing.
The first morning, with home base firmly established and a hike on Monterey State Beach leaving sand wedged between every toe, it was time to peel away from the hotel. From the sofa placed in front of the suite’s wall-to-wall window, watching the blue-green waves roll in was mesmerizing. The rooms come with free wi-fi and big screen televisions. But why bother when Mother Nature provides constant demonstration of coastal splendor, strength and spontaneity? From sunrise to sunset, the view was dramatic, gorgeous and unforgettable.
The same was true of my first outing: a trip to the vaunted Monterey Bay Aquarium. Among the highlights were eye-catching leopard sharks, tiny northern anchovy and giant sea bass that can weigh up to 500 pounds, all meandering or darting through the kelp forest’s towering fronds. In the Splash Zone, African penguins busily groomed (and one awkward fellow attempted to mate, prompting a nearby visitor to sweat and begin explaining how life begins to his inquisitive child). In a separate tank, energetic schools of orange and black clownfish were offset by stunning regal blue tang fish.
The Open Sea exhibit provided the greatest surprises and long-lasting memories with its marvelous purple-striped jellies that pulse with invisible muscles to magically move, brilliant orange sea nettles trailing sinuous (and lethal) tentacles, slow-moving gigantic green turtles, zippy scalloped hammerhead sharks, silver rivers of Pacific sardines and yellowfish tuna using binocular vision. Display labels report fascinating facts about other sea life zooming through the floor-to-ceiling tank’s filtered light. The experience was spectacular and immersive.
In other areas, sea otters frolicked, swam effortlessly or floated on their backs like swimmers resting between sprints. High activity and excitement were the primary themes throughout the aquarium. Welcome features—when the sound of people talking or the visual stimulus threatened to become overwhelming—were options for momentary escape: outdoor viewing stations, guided tours, feeding presentations, auditorium programs and an onsite café.
The drive along the coast to my second destination, the Point Pinos Lighthouse, was perfect for picnicking. A bike/walk path with numerous benches winds between the road and shore. Parking outside the downtown core is mostly free, and the views of the ocean breaking against monumental rock formations were unsurpassable. Dinner leftovers from the Lantern Room made for upscale lunch fare—baked lasagna rolls oozing with rich béchamel and spicy Italian sausage, roasted Mary’s chicken breast with English pea and barley risotto, seasonal fruit cups, and delicious, crusty Ad Astra sourdough bread.
The meal consumed, the Point Pinos Lighthouse was next on the agenda. Point Pinos was established in 1855 and is the oldest continuously operating lighthouse on the West Coast. Inside, visitors learn about the Fresnel lens manufactured in Paris, the impact of earthquakes and technical advancements such as electricity, radio, satellites and more. Informed and enthusiastic docents tell stories of lightkeepers who lived and served in Point Pinos in rooms displaying various artifacts. Tight, spiral stairways allow people to climb up to the (very tiny) top floor.
This lighthouse is surrounded by the back-nine holes of the Pacific Grove Golf Links, a public 18-hole golf course owned by the City of Pacific Grove. Picturesque, with windswept dunes and stunning ocean views, the course is made tricky due to shifting marine winds and fast-moving greens. Time did not allow a day on the links. Only the possibility of future return to work on my (embarrassing) handicap was comforting.
Meanwhile, the area’s great restaurants beckoned, among them, Red House Cafe, located in a historic (red) Victorian house in Pacific Grove’s downtown. Offering New American cuisine made with fresh, seasonal ingredients and known by the locals for its excellent seafood, the establishment features fascinating history and glowing reviews.
Back in Monterey, Alejandro’s pairs upscale Mexican cuisine with California vinos from Alta and Baja, signature tequilas, mezcals, cócteles and more. A manager says the most popular dishes include bone marrow, among others, the barbacoa “osso buco” and the barrio and bone broth tacos. Seating at tables or in one of the curvaceous booths carved into side walls makes a visit either communal or cozy.
A third alternative with equally fascinating history and artful interior design is Stokes Adobe. American cuisine with flair lent by the chefs’ selectivity with ingredients and spices, aesthetically rewarding plating and diverse cooking modalities are on display during the restaurant’s happy hour and dinner service.
Of course, the three-day trip to the Monterey Bay region hardly tapped the area’s plentiful opportunities for dining, shopping, indoor and outdoor activities, and visiting other lodgings. Activities on the list for a return are Monterey Glass Works, Pacific Grove Art Center, Monterey Whale Watching tours, kayaking at the Elkhart Slough, and coffee and other sips at Captain + Stoker.
Also up next are a meal at Fishwife, an upscale restaurant that has integrated sustainable seafood into its menus; golfing in Pacific Grove; ogling yachts at Old Fisherman’s Wharf; hiking trails in Monterey, Pacific Grove and Carmel; attending outdoor concerts; and checking out local wineries and distilleries.
As for lodging, if budgets ballooned and fantasy were embraced, alternatives might include the graceful five-star Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel, the bustling Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa, the four-star/golf course hugging Casa Palmero or the famous/illustrious The Lodge at Pebble Beach. But honestly? Even if wallets were wide and eager to be emptied, the siren call of those waves and the beach just steps below my room would most likely bring me back to my temporary home base at the Monterey Beach Hotel.
